“To me, sustainability is being mindful. First and foremost, it is about making and growing something in an ethical and sustainable manner, or recycling and reusing if not.
– Gosia Piatek, Founder and Creative Director of Kowtow
This week is Fashion Revolution Week. What does that mean? It means that, this week, April 23rd – 29th, is about highlighting and campaigning for the importance of a fair and ethical fashion industry. Its about #whomademyclothes. The majority of the people who make clothes for the global market live in poverty, unable to afford life’s basic necessities in order to maintain the west’s obsession with the latest trends at the cheapest prices. As is so often with these “topic weeks”, this is an issue that needs more that just a week of attention. It does get the conversation started, so in line with this, here is a post I have been meaning to share for a while: my favourite most beautiful NZ fashion brands, which also happen to be ethical.
Ethical fashion is something that has really been a big focus for me and my purchases ever since my mum opened her ethical boutique, Maude and Tommy back in my home town, York in the UK, in 2007. Back then (I cant believe this is 11 years ago) “ethical” or “sustainable” wasn’t really a word you heard a lot in relation to fashion. Ethical fashion was associated with baggy hemp trousers, tiedye tshirts and beaded necklaces! But we weren’t so limited then, and we definitely are not now.
There are SO MANY amazing and interesting companies making clothing and accessories that are kind to both people and to the environment. Thankfully, this is an ethos that is becoming more mainstream and vital in the fashion world. It is also important for us to show the industry and show big business what we expect and want as standard and the best way to do this is by being careful with the choices and purchases we make.
But before I go on to give you my favourite NZ ethical brands, I should explain, what I am talking about when I discuss ‘ethical’ fashion? This can be confusing and it is an important thing to look at because to me, there are a combination of factors, which individually, or alone, make clothing more ethical. To describe, I will use the standards my mum uses to choose the lines she sells in her boutique. Everything is at least one, or a combination of the following principles:
- Made through Fair Trade: Every person at every step of the manufacturing process is given a fair wage and price and is free from exploitation.
- Made using organic cotton and harmful-chemical-free fibres: Not harming the earth by not contributing to to pollution of the air, waterways and the earth.
- Recycled: Using second hand clothing or jewellery as well as recycled materials, which reduces production and consumption.
- Local: By buying from local brands and makers we are reducing the negative impact of a long supply chain and also supporting the local economy and a fair living wage.
- Buying long term quality: Buying high quality garments that last a long time and do not need to be replaced is ethical as it reduces consumption and production.
All of these principles are a move towards a more sustainable fashion industry and by buying items that fit within these categories, we are doing our bit to support sustainable fashion to reduce support for companies that exploit workers and the environment.
Here in New Zealand, the choices and availability of fashion and trends is much slimmer than it is in Europe and I personally see less of a fast fashion obsession. This is great. Maybe its down to the lack of availability, or maybe its down to the fact that people are prepared to pay a little more for clothing. I’m not too sure, but even so, the big, scary and tempting brands like Glassons and The Warehouse still exist, churning out huge numbers of super cheap and poor quality clothing each week.
If you’re like me, and you are looking for ways to avoid this destructive fast fashion cycle there are some beautiful independent and ‘ethical’ NZ Fashion brands that you may want to put those pennies towards. This way you get something beautiful, that will last forever, not just this month. You can also rest easy that the company has been fair to the entire supply chain that produced the garment. Plus, these brands are SO SO beautiful and and amazing, ethical or not. I can’t keep them all to myself so here goes:
Kowtow
Kowtow is probably the biggest and most clear cut, fully sustainable and ethical New Zealand brand. Ethical and sustainable values are at the core of Kowtow. All Kowtow garments are certified by non-profit internationally recognised organisations.
Founder and Creative Director, Gosia Piatek said “To me, sustainability is being mindful. First and foremost, it is about making and growing something in an ethical and sustainable manner, or recycling and reusing if not. I also want to make sure that everyone in the production chain is being rewarded fairly for what they do, without being exploited.”
Yu Mei
Based in Wellington, New Zealand, Yu Mei’s mission is to create quality products that will weather your journey with you, each new scratch and mark another adventure in your story. Yu Mei is a leather goods label devoted to the creation of understated luxury. Each bag design is born from the ethos that simplicity is complexity resolved, built for purpose to carry with ease. I just bought one of their bags and I am so so in love with it.
Penny Sage
Georgia Jay
Each Georgia Jay bag is made in New Zealand, with the application of slow fashion and a focus on using natural materials and hand finishings. Georgia, hand picks all her materials locally and personally cuts every hide and skin as to always invest an intimate influence into each piece.As well as making enjoyable leather accessories for her extended community, Georgia also makes the process enjoyable for herself. With a focus on tactility through her entire working process, from initial idea to the final product, her hands have been involved. Small, limited edition runs and one-off pieces, keep the brand adaptable and ultimately exciting.
Standard Issue
Standard Issue was founded by Nigel Richards in the late 1980’s. The label developed a loyal following of local creatives who coveted its high quality merino knitwear and handmade shoes. In 1990. Standard Issue has continued to grow until the point Nigel was able to wholesale exclusively to a national market.
Standard Issue remains 100% New Zealand designed and made to this day.
We-Ar Yoga
“We-Ar Yoga carefully select textiles for all garments, including the organic yoga clothing, that feel good against the skin, perform well, are of good quality and are good for the environment. To help with the selection process they develop a preferred materials list based on a rigorous life-cycle analysis that considers the environmental, health and social impact of the growth and processing of plants, fibres and textiles” This yoga wear is beautiful and long lasting and sustainable.
Paris Georgia
Paris Georgia is a contemporary ready-to-wear label producing a range of timeless classics. Born out of designers Georgia Cherrie and Paris Mitchell’s need for everyday essentials, the brand’s 90s slip dresses have quickly earned a cult-like status and have been seen on style icons Phoebe Tonkin and Jeanne Demas. The Paris Georgia girl is a progressive woman who doesn’t need to be defined by trends.
Paris Georgia is dedicated to creating beautiful classic pieces that will last, with each design being made locally in New Zealand.
Shjark
Shjark is a line of modern wardrobe essentials, designed to be completely of the moment, yet eschewing trends. Working with trusted specialist manufacturers in New Zealand, it balances the relaxed with sophisticated; the classic and the modern. Inspired by utility, form and function, it is a concise modular wardrobe to be worn and lived in. Everyday.
Little Yellow Bird
Based out of Wellington, Little Yellow Bird we make uniforms and branded apparel that is better for people and better for the planet. Whether you’re looking for a dozen aprons, several thousand tee’s, or want to create a custom item, they’ve got you covered with quality ethical clothing.
All factories follow fair-trade guidelines and monitor supply chain, from farm to factory. The organic cotton is grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals. All their factories use zero-waste initiates, including solar panels and rooftop gardens, and continuously work to minimise waste. They are continuously working to develop products to maximise comfort and durability but not at the detriment to people and the planet.
Twenty Seven Names
Twenty-seven names is proudly made in New Zealand.
They feel a responsibility to the people who make, sell and wear our clothes and try t make choices that support women, help local and small businesses, and cause the least harm to the environment. From the casting of fashion week shows, to the language used in marketing; from the buttons to the stitching – they believe in respecting how people feel and the way they live, and try to make sure we’re making things better, not worse.
The clothing is beautiful. The most luxurious fabrics and colours and really wearable.
Re-Create
Each Re-Create train and employ new students from within the Dey Tmey, Cambodian community who have a desire to learn a lifelong skill that will provide for themselves, their family and their future.
The brand headquarters is located in New Zealand where the team are work to ensure ongoing opportunities in Cambodia. Together with growing demand from customers for better standards in the garment industry and the growth of ReCreate in New Zealand and overseas, lives are transformed by providing fair and empowering employment for the community that make the laid back and simple streetwear.
Trade Me
Trade me isn’t a brand but I don’t want you to forget about it! This and other second hand retailers are the ultimate NZ place where you can find amazing recycled, slow fashion for cheap. This is ethical fashion. Support your fellow New Zealander and buy their unwanted stuff, while also not promoting the fast fashion industry and helping people around the globe. One mans trash is another mans treasure and is also kind to people and the planet.
Try the 8 out of 10 rule.
I am not claiming to be perfect (or rich) here. Unfortunately I don’t own beautifully made ethical clothing exclusively by these brands. I wish that I did! But shopping the high street is inevitable sometimes, lets face it! It is really hard to be perfect. BUT, incase it helps, here is a little tip that I heard this recently, and also mentioned it in my post 19 Ways to be more environmentally-friendly in Wellington: The 8 out of 10 rule. What is the 8 out of 10 rule? It simply means, aim to be good, 8 out of 10 times. Say you buy from charity shops and your favourite ethical brands 8 times out of 10 and then you go to H&M and Macpac for the other 2, then this is a pretty great! This just something to aim for. If everyone tried to do this, consumption, waste and the environment would all be moving in the right direction and manufacturers and big business would see what is important to us. Hopefully BIG change will happen!
Thanks for reading and come back soon. Very soon – Lots more like this to come!
For more like this you might like to check out these posts:
Why Wellington is a Fair Trade City
Otuki Garden – Eco Retreat on the Banks Peninsular
Where to shop Organic/Sustainable in Wellington
19 Ways to be more environmentally friendly in Wellington
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Josie x
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